A solo weekend in Edinburgh

I spent a lot of time trying to decide where to go on my first ever solo trip. After debating whether to go abroad or somewhere closer to home, I eventually settled on a weekend in Edinburgh because it's a city I've always wanted to visit. Can you believe that up until that point I had never been to Scotland?!

If you're thinking about going on a solo trip, or are looking for things to do during a weekend in Edinburgh, then hopefully this post will give you a few ideas. Keep reading to find out where I stayed, what I did and where I ate.

Why did I decide to book a solo trip?

At the end of February, it was the one year anniversary of when I was diagnosed with cancer. I started to think a lot about the past year. During treatment, I was rarely left alone for longer than a few hours. When I finished chemotherapy and found out I was in remission, I found my confidence had dwindled and I was scared to be independent again. You have no idea how much time I spent crying in my car because I felt so anxious.

Things improved a lot at the beginning of 2020, and I started to think about booking a trip away by myself. I wanted to reassure myself that I'm capable of doing things by myself, without anyone holding my hand. When the opportunity arose shortly after my one-year 'cancerversary', I decided to just do it before I talked myself out of it.

Travelling from Birmingham to Edinburgh

One of the main reasons I chose Edinburgh as the destination for my first solo trip is because it's easy and convenient to get there by train. The tickets aren't cheap (it cost me £115 return) but the journey takes less than 4.5 hours, and you arrive right in the centre of the city. You also get some lovely views of the Lake District on the way up.

I booked the 8.15am train leaving on Friday morning, and arrived into Edinburgh Waverley Station at around 12.20pm. My train home was booked for 2.50pm that Sunday, so I had just over 48 hours to explore.

Where I stayed

I did a bit of research into the best hostels in Edinburgh, and Castel Rock came highly recommended. Two nights in a mixed dorm cost me less than £35, which seemed like a bargain. The location was perfect; right next to Edinburgh Castle and literally a two-minute walk to the Grassmarket and Victoria Crescent. I didn't have to use taxis or public transport at all while I was there. Most importantly, I felt completely safe as a solo female traveller.

A Weekend in Edinburgh: Day One

• Harry Potter Walking Tour
• Greyfriar's Kirkyard
• Edinburgh Castle and The Royal Mile
• Calton Hill
• Dinner at Bread Meats Bread

After dropping my backpack off at the hostel, I went for a bit of a wander to find somewhere for lunch. I ended up grabbing a slice of pizza from a place called Civerinos, which had a few vegan and veggie options. It looked like it would be quite a nice place to eat in the evening too.

From there, I wandered over to the Greyfriar's Bobby statue, which is the starting point for the free Harry Potter Edinburgh tour (aka "The Potter Trail").

If you're not familiar with the story, Bobby was a Skye Terrier who spent 14 years keeping watch over his owners grave in Greyfriars Kirkyard until he himself passed away. This statue was commissioned in his honour. Unfortunately, his nose has started to wear away from tourists rubbing it (supposedly because it brings good luck).

Harry Potter Walking Tour Edinburgh

We spent the first half of the Harry Potter tour in Greyfriars Kirkyard. Our guide Alex explained that J.K. Rowling would often walk around this graveyard when she was writing the books. There are several tombstones that actually inspired the names of certain Harry Potter characters, including Professor McGonagall and Tom Riddle.

Our next stop was the café where J.K wrote the Philosopher's Stone (and it may not be the one you think!) The tour ended on Victoria Crescent, which is thought to be the original inspiration for Diagon Alley.

I really recommend this tour if you're a fan of the Wizarding World. It only takes around 75-minutes and I learnt so much! Because it's free, you only tip what you think the tour is worth at the end.

Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile and Calton Hill

After the tour, I popped back to the Hostel to freshen up. Then it was straight back out and up to Edinburgh Castle, where I snapped a few photos but chose not to pay to go inside. I then wandered down the Royal Mile, all the way to the Palace of Holyroodhouse.

I briefly considered climbing Arthur's Seat, as I'd heard it's one of the top things to do in Edinburgh. Then I reminded myself that I'd only finished chemo 7 months ago and it was probably best not to push myself too hard! Instead, I made my way up Calton Hill, which only took me 15-20 minutes. The views were breath-taking. I arrived just as the sun was setting, and got so many incredible photos. If it hadn't been so cold and windy I could have stayed up there for hours!

Dinner at Bread Meats Bread

For dinner that evening, I decided to head to Bread Meats Bread, which was only a short walk from my hostel. I really fancied a burger, and I'd heard they do good vegan and veggie options. I ordered the "Caribbean" burger, which was essentially a vegan patty topped with vegan bacon, sweet potato fries and vegan mayo. It was delicious! Although I wish I'd realised it came with sweet potato fries on the actual burger before I'd ordered a separate bowl. I was basically drowning in sweet potato!

I headed back to the hostel after dinner and spent a couple of hours in the common area, before making my way up to bed for an earlyish night.

A Weekend in Edinburgh: Day Two

• Breakfast at Urban Angel (trying vegetarian haggis!)
• Shopping on Princes Street and Victoria Street
• Gelato at Mary's Milk Bar
• Museum of Childhood
• National Museum of Scotland
• Ghostly Underground Vaults Tour

I woke up at around 8.15am and decided to get myself showered and ready for the day, rather than snooze in bed. I knew I wanted to go to a place called Urban Angel for breakfast. This is located in Edinburgh's New Town (whereas Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile are located in the Old Town).

There was a small queue when I arrived, but I was seated straight away. It's a good job I got there for just after they opened at 9am because by 9.45 the place was full! I spoke to one of the waitresses and she said it's always busy on a weekend. I ordered avocado on toast with veggie haggis on the side and omg it was so good.

Shopping in Edinburgh

After breakfast, I walked down to Princes Street and wandering around a few shops, including H&M and Topshop. I didn't have much room in my rucksack, so I managed to talk myself out of buying anything.

Later that afternoon, I also walked back through Victoria Street to pop into Museum Context, which I'd heard is a really good Harry Potter shop. Some of the items they have are a little expensive, but I did treat myself to a cute canvas bag.

While you're in the area I'd also recommend popping down the road to Mary's Milk Bar, which is located on the Grassmarket. They do a range of different flavoured ice creams and sorbets, including vegan options.

Exploring the free museums in Edinburgh

Edinburgh has plenty of interesting museums, many of which are free to enter (although donations are welcome). I started with the Museum of Childhood, which is located on the Royal Mile. It's dedicated to the history of childhood, with displays featuring toys and games spanning generations.

From there, I walked to the National Museum of Scotland, which is HUGE. It's like a labyrinth inside, and I got lost several times. I easily spent two hours wandering around the various exhibitions. You also get some incredible views from the rooftop terrace.

I also popped into the Museum on the Mound, located inside the Bank of Scotland Head Office. Their main attraction is a display which shows what a million pounds looks like in cash. I literally only spent 5-10 minutes in here, before walking over to The Writer's Museum. If you're interested in Literature then you'll probably find it a lot more interesting than I did. It was ok, but not somewhere I'd go back in a hurry.

Somehow I also found time to pop into the Scottish National Gallery. It was undergoing major redevelopment while I was there, and I don't think I got the full experience. Apparently, they have paintings by van Gogh, Monet, and other really famous artists, but I couldn't find where they were... so I gave up. Maybe next time.

Ghostly Underground Vaults Tour

For my final evening, I booked a Haunted Underground Vaults Tour. There were only 7 people in my group, and in total it lasted around an hour. Our guide told us many tales of Edinburgh's history and showed us around the infamous vaults hidden under the South Bridge. It was really interesting, and our guide had a lot of energy and enthusiasm. My only wish is it had been a little longer!

For dinner that evening I wanted to eat at Makars Gourmet Mash Bar, but unfortunately, it was looking like a 50-minute wait for a table. So instead I walked down to the Grassmarket and grabbed a burrito bowl at a little Mexican restaurant called El Toro Loco.

A Weekend in Edinburgh: Day Three

• Breakfast at Hula Juice Bar on Victoria Street
• Visiting Maison de Moggy Cat Cafe

I woke up early again on my final day in Edinburgh. After checking out, I left my rucksack in the luggage storage room while I went out exploring for last time.

It was a beautifully sunny day, so I made my way up the Vennel (The Miss Jean Brodie steps) off the Grassmarket and snapped a few photos of Edinburgh Castle. I then grabbed breakfast at Hula Juice Bar, which was surprisingly nice. The smoothie bowl I ordered was delicious!

Maison de Moggy

At 10.30am I had a reservation at Edinburgh's cat cafe Maison de Moggy. If you're a regular reader of my blog then you'll know I have a little obsession with cat cafes! I made my reservation a few days in advance to ensure I would get in. As I entered the cafe, everyone was asked to remove their shoes for hygiene reasons. Then we were free to roam and meet the kitties. Most of the cats were snoozing peaceful, but a few were awake and happy to be fussed over. I ordered a cappuccino (plant milks are available) and would have ordered a cake if I hadn't been so full from breakfast.

On weekends they charge a £10 fee upfront to enter the cafe, or it's £8 on weekdays. Then you pay for any drinks or cakes before you leave. This might seem a little steep (it's the most expensive cat cafe I've visited) however it's important to know this goes towards the health and welfare of the cats. It was reassuring to know they have strict rules in place, and you could see that the cats were happy and well cared for.

After my visit to the cat cafe, I popped back to the hostel to collect my luggage and went to meet my friend Christie (who lives in Edinburgh) for a coffee, before catching my train home.

I really enjoyed my first visit to Edinburgh and would love to go again in the summer for the Fringe Festival, or over the winter to visit the Christmas Markets.

Have you ever been to Edinburgh? Is there anything you'd recommend?

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